Compton's hard well water — the same 6.5 to 15 grains per gallon that pits copper pipe from the inside — is just as hard on the moving parts inside a faucet. Mineral buildup wears down cartridges and washers faster than manufacturers' national averages assume, which is why a faucet that should last a decade starts dripping in five or six years here. Shutoff valves fare worse: many post-war tract homes still have their original gate valves at the main shutoff and under fixtures, and gate valves seize with mineral deposits and age far more readily than the ball valves used today. A valve that will not turn is not a minor inconvenience — it means you cannot isolate that fixture in an emergency, which turns a small drip into a bigger problem the day something actually fails.
What we fix under this service
- Dripping faucets. Almost always a worn cartridge, O-ring, or washer. We carry stock for the common builder-grade brands found in Compton's tract housing, so most repairs finish in one visit without a special order.
- Shower and tub valves. A valve that will not hold temperature, drips after the water is off, or has become hard to turn usually needs a cartridge or stem replacement, occasionally a full valve body swap on older units.
- Shutoff and supply valves. Seized main shutoffs, stuck toilet supply valves, and failed angle stops under sinks. If your main gate valve does not turn freely, we replace it with a quarter-turn ball valve so a future emergency shutoff actually works.
- Outdoor hose bibs and spigots. The same fixture some people call a spigot — drips, won't shut fully, or has frozen open after a rare cold snap. See our dedicated hose bib page for leak-specific detail.
- Burst or broken supply lines. The flexible line between a shutoff valve and a fixture, which fails from age and hard-water mineral stress the same way cartridges do.
Why we test the shutoff first, not just the fixture
Before repairing any faucet or valve, we confirm the local shutoff actually isolates it. In a meaningful share of Compton service calls the isolation valve is as seized as the fixture itself, which changes the job from a five-minute cartridge swap to a two-part repair. We would rather tell you that upfront than discover it mid-repair with water already running.
When it is a valve problem, not a leak problem
Not every fixture call is a leak. A valve that simply will not turn, a faucet that has lost pressure, or a handle that spins without engaging are mechanical failures rather than active leaks, and they are worth fixing before they become one. If what you are actually seeing is water escaping from a wall, floor, or ceiling near a fixture, that is more likely a supply line or slab issue — see our pipe leak detection page instead.
Faucet dripping or a valve that will not turn?Dispatch answers 24/7. Written quote before any work.
✆ (424) 544-0235Faucet & valve questions from Compton homeowners
My faucet drips only at night. Is that normal?
It is more noticeable at night when the house is quiet, but the cause is the same worn cartridge or washer regardless of when you hear it. It will not fix itself and the mineral content in Compton's water tends to accelerate the wear once it starts.
Why won't my main shutoff valve turn?
Original gate valves in homes built through the 1960s seize with age and mineral buildup. We can sometimes free one carefully, but if it has been stuck for years the safer fix is replacing it with a ball valve that will actually work when you need it.
Can I replace a cartridge myself?
For some fixtures, yes, if you can identify the exact cartridge model. The complication is usually the shutoff valve failing to fully isolate the line, which turns a simple swap into a bigger job without warning.
Is a dripping outdoor spigot worth fixing?
A slow drip outside can waste thousands of gallons a year and, depending on the fixture, may indicate the beginning of a freeze-related crack. Worth a same-visit fix rather than letting it run.